十九世纪末至二十世纪初西方女性茶礼服研究

发布时间：2018-05-15 16:27

本文选题：女性茶礼服 + 图像　；参考：《东华大学》2017年硕士论文

【摘要】：本文着重于西方女性茶礼服从产生到流行、直至谢幕这段历史的研究,致力于十九世纪中后期至二十世纪初女性茶礼服的流行款式、面料、色彩、裙撑等方面的发展变化规律,以丰富的实物照片、报刊图像以及文献资料,对西方女性茶礼服的特点进行了细致的分析和总结概括;亦从一些与茶礼服相关的特殊现象出发,发现当时女性茶礼服的独特之处,以及西方女性服饰特有的流行文化。通过这些方面的研究,再现一段西方女性茶礼服完整的发展历程。第一部分,是对茶礼服发展脉络的梳理。结合时代背景、下午茶文化的发展以及当时的时尚潮流,对茶礼服从诞生、流行到在历史舞台上的谢幕这段历史进行回顾。第二部分,是对本文收集的十九世纪中后期至二十世纪初西方女性茶礼服的样本的研究。对服装要素做逐一分析,包括服装的廓形、紧身胸衣及裙撑样式、面料、色彩、部件,并在分析之中发现这些要素变化的时间节点。并与同时期女性服饰比较,并相关文献结合,相互补充论证,使女性茶礼服研究的证据更加细致准确。图文互证的方式,对于茶礼服整个发展脉络的描述更加清晰连贯,在细节和整体上都能较为准确地把握西方女性茶礼服的演变轨迹。第三部分,对茶礼服的演变轨迹做出综述。将茶礼服的发展分为三个阶段,总结各个阶段代表形态效果图,探寻了发展变化的规律性。通过本文的研究,得出以下结论:第一,茶礼服的发展主要分为突出裙摆与臀部造型的巴斯尔、逐渐放宽腰线的S形以及现代化的居家服饰三个时期。第二,茶礼服与日常服饰最大的不同之处在于无需穿着紧身胸衣,这在一定程度上也影响了后来女性对于紧身胸衣的摒弃。最后,从最初在下午茶会时穿着的服饰到最后完全成为女性的居家服装,茶礼服的职能虽发生了变化却始终没能迈出“家门”。
[Abstract]:This paper focuses on the study of the history of western women's tea dress from its emergence to popularity until the curtain, and devotes itself to the development and change of the popular style, fabric, color, skirt brace and other aspects of the female tea dress from the middle of the nineteenth century to the beginning of the 20th century. The characteristics of western female tea dress are analyzed and summarized in detail with abundant physical photos, newspaper images and documents, and some special phenomena related to tea dress are also discussed. Discover the uniqueness of the female tea dress at that time, as well as the popular culture characteristic of the western women's dress. Through these aspects of research, the reproduction of a Western women's tea dress complete development process. The first part is about the development of tea dress. In combination with the background of the times, the development of afternoon tea culture and the fashion trend at that time, the history of tea dress from birth and popularity to the curtain call on the historical stage is reviewed. The second part is a study on the samples of western female tea dresses collected from the mid-nineteenth century to the early 20th century. This paper analyzes the garment elements one by one, including the profile of the garment, the style of corset and skirt brace, the fabric, color, and components, and finds the time node of the change of these elements in the analysis. And compared with the women's dress of the same period, and the related literature union, mutually supplementary argument, causes the female tea dress research evidence to be more meticulous and accurate. The description of the whole development of tea dress is more clear and coherent in the way of mutual proof of picture and text, and can accurately grasp the evolution track of western female tea dress in detail and overall. The third part summarizes the evolution of tea dress. The development of tea dress was divided into three stages. Through the research of this paper, the following conclusions are drawn: first, the development of tea dress is divided into three periods: Pasteur with prominent skirt and buttocks, gradually loosening the S-shape of waist line and modern household dress. Second, the biggest difference between a tea dress and a daily dress is that there is no need to wear a corset, which in part influenced women's rejection of corset later. Finally, from the dress that was first worn at the afternoon tea party to finally becoming a woman's home dress, the function of the tea dress has changed but has never been able to step out of the house.
【学位授予单位】：东华大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：C913.68

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