吉林省伊通满族博物馆旗袍研究

发布时间：2018-06-08 20:09

本文选题：吉林满族 + 伊通　；参考：《中央民族大学》2017年硕士论文

【摘要】：在我国这个统一的多民族国家中,各民族都因其独特的历史文化而绽放光彩。满族是我国北方具有悠久历史的少数民族,对中华民族的发展做出过重大的贡献,并且在漫长的历史进程中创造了独具特色的民族文化艺术,她灿烂的文化以在中国历史上产生过巨大影响而闻名于世。文化的载体从艺术中显现,各民族用鲜活的艺术语言表达其民族精神,旗袍作为满族服饰文化的重要组成部分,不仅是一种民族服饰,更是满族几千年来民族渔猎农耕文化的传承。满族的先祖很早就繁衍在我国的黑山白水间,是最早能在历史文献中找到相关资料的北方少数民族,在漫长悠久的历史发展过程中,由肃慎人几经发展演变,至宋、元、明形成为女真人。从努尔哈赤统一女真人各部开始,明代的女真进入了兴盛时期,这个时期的到来注定了满族的诞生。据2010年的第六次全国人口普查,大陆地区的满族人口约为1041万,台湾地区的满族人口数量约为1.2万,在中国少数民族总人口中排名第三,随着各民族历史的发展和变迁,现今的满族散居在全国各地,大部分满族散居在吉林、内蒙古、黑龙江等地区,并在主要的聚居地建立了满族自治县和若干个满族乡。伊通县满族自治县简称为伊通,古时被称为以秃,伊屯等,都为满语的音译,其满语来源于伊通河的名称,有汹涌和宏大之意。其地域辽阔,历史悠久,为满族的发源地之一,也是吉林省唯一一个满族自治县,有着深厚的文化底蕴。从古溯今,海西女真扈伦四部中的辉发部和叶赫部在明朝中晚期时驻足于伊通,在此地开拓基业和繁衍生息,并且与之后的建州女真融合,统称为"满洲"。清朝的孝慈高皇后与孝慈显皇后都是叶赫那拉氏的后代,叶赫所居之地距离伊通也只有几十公里,生活气息与文化血脉相通,不论从地理位置还是历史渊源上看,伊通与满族都有着最原始的联系。于2001年时,在满族风情浓郁,素有"满人魂乡"之称的伊通建立了伊通满族博物馆,其前身是1987年6月创建的伊通满族民俗馆。博物馆造型新颖,雄大宏伟,完美的结合了民族建筑特色与当代建筑风格,馆内设有七个展厅,馆藏的文物多达630种,近4600件,是目前国内县级满族民俗文物收藏最多,质量最好,档次较高的民俗文化展示胜地。馆内从满族的源流、生产生活、文化特色、文化礼仪、信仰和古今伊通这七个部分进行展出,从满族文物、照片和模型等表现形式展现了唯美的满族风情画卷,也展现出满族先民用勤劳与智慧描绘出绚丽多彩的民俗文化,从不同的侧面映现出伊通满族的悠久历史和灿烂文化。博物馆内展出了大量的满族服饰,从衣冠鞋履到精美配饰,其中旗袍占有最大的比重,不论是不同款式的旗袍,还是与旗袍相配的服饰首饰发饰,都有相关文物陈列,作者在参观博物馆时,讲解员也是身着旗袍,进行全程讲解。旗袍是由袍服演变而来,而袍服是在满族先民在长期的生产生活方式中,加之与自然环境进行抗争,将本族的民族文化与其他民族的民族文化习俗不断融合的产物,在满族进入中原以后,生活方式有了很大的改变,由狩猎游牧变为了农耕生活,再加上满汉文化的交融,使得旗袍的款式也悄悄的进行着改变,旗袍的发展变迁史也是满族历史变迁的一面镜子,具有相当深厚的历史文化渊源,笔者希望通过对伊通满族博物馆旗袍的研究,从美学和艺术学的角度,充分认识博物馆内旗袍中蕴含的历史文化、审美特征以及文化内涵。第一章介绍了选题研究缘起及意义、研究目的及方法和相关概念界定。本文以伊通满族博物馆中的旗袍作为研究对象,采用了历史文献研究法和田野调查法,分析研究了博物馆内的多件旗袍。研究原因主要是通过对其旗袍进行细致系统的研究,能够对满族旗袍的研究领域进行扩充,为旗袍艺术的传承与发展提供一定的理论依据。第二章是对旗袍进行概述,主要内容在于对旗袍发展史进行介绍。在此章节中笔者查阅了大量的文献古籍,对以往的研究学者对于旗袍的发展演变过程进行了系统的整理。第三章对伊通满族博物馆旗袍进行了概述,从整身旗袍与旗袍相关服饰两部分进行介绍。第四章对伊通满族博物馆旗袍的审美特征进行了分析研究,通过对收集图片的归纳分析,分别从材质语言、色彩语言、纹饰语言、造型语言与工艺语言去介绍。第五章系统的分析了伊通满族博物馆旗袍的文化内涵,主要从历史的传承、与女性美的关系和当代社会这三个方面进行论述。
[Abstract]:In this unified multi-ethnic country, all ethnic groups are blossoming because of their unique history and culture. Manchu is a ethnic minority with a long history in the north of China. It has made great contributions to the development of the Chinese nation and created a unique culture and art in the long history. The carrier of culture has been famous in the history of China. The carrier of culture appears from the art. All ethnic groups express their national spirit with vivid artistic language. As an important part of the Manchu dress culture, Qipao is not only a national costume, but also the inheritance of the Manchu culture and culture of the ethnic fishing and hunting for thousands of years. Early on the black mountain white water between China, the earliest in the historical literature to find the relevant information in the northern minority, in the long and long history of historical development, from the Su Shen people to the development and evolution, to the song, yuan, Ming shape became a woman. From Nur Ha Che unify the Ministry of women, the Ming dynasty women entered the flourishing period, The arrival of this period is doomed to the birth of the Manchu. According to the sixth national census in 2010, the population of the Manchu population in the mainland is about 10 million 410 thousand. The population of the Manchu population in Taiwan is about 12 thousand. The population of the Chinese minority is ranked third. With the development and change of the history of each ethnic group, the Manchus are scattered all over the country. Most Manchu scattered in Jilin, Inner Mongolia, Heilongjiang and other areas, and in the main settlement of Manchu Autonomous County and a number of Manchu townships. Yitong County Manchu Autonomous County is called Yitong. The ancient time is called bald, yitun, and other Manchu transliteration. The Manchu language comes from the name of the Yitong River, which is turbulent and grand. With a long history and one of the birthplaces of Manchu, it is also the only Manchu Autonomous County in Jilin province. It has a profound cultural background. From ancient times, the Ministry of Hui hair and ye Hau in the four parts of the Haixi female real hayen reside in the Yitong in the middle and late Ming Dynasty. For the "Manchuria". The Qing Dynasty's filial piety queen and the empress of filial piety are all descendants of yetarara. Yehiel's place is only a few tens of kilometers from Yitong, the breath of life is connected with the blood of culture. Regardless of geographical location and historical origin, Yi Tong and Manchu have the most primitive relations. In 2001, the Manchu customs were rich and rich. The Museum of Yitong Manchu, known as "full of soul townships", is a museum of Yitong Manchu. Its predecessor is Yitong Manchu folk custom museum, which was created in June 1987. The museum has a new style and great majestic style. It has a perfect combination of national architectural features and contemporary architectural style. There are seven exhibition halls in the museum. There are as many as 630 kinds of cultural relics and nearly 4600. The folk custom cultural relics have the most collection, the best quality and the high grade folk culture display resort. The museum displays the seven parts of the Manchu origin, production, life, cultural features, cultural etiquette, belief and ancient and modern Yitong. It shows the beautiful Manchu style picture from the Manchu cultural relics, photos and models, and also shows the Manchu first. Civil service and wisdom depict a colorful folk culture, reflecting the long history and splendid culture of the Manchu from different sides. A large number of Manchu costumes are displayed in the museum, from the dress shoes to the exquisite accessories, of which the cheongsam occupies the largest proportion, whether it is the different style of the cheongsam, or the dress matching the cheongsam. When the author visited the museum, the author was dressed in a cheongsam to explain the whole course. The cheongsam was evolved from a robe, and the gown was in a long period of production and life, in addition to the natural environment, and the ethnic culture of the family and the national cultural customs of other nationalities. After the integration of the Manchu into the Central Plains, the way of life changed greatly. The hunting nomads changed into farming life, and the blend of the Manchu and Chinese culture made the style of the cheongsam changed quietly. The history of the development and change of the cheongsam was also a mirror of the historical changes of the Manchu nationality, with a considerable historical culture. The author hopes to fully understand the history, culture, aesthetic characteristics and cultural connotations of the cheongsam in the museum through the study of the cheongsam of the Yitong Manchu Museum, from the angle of aesthetics and art. The first chapter introduces the origin and significance of the study, the purpose and method of the study and the definition of the related concepts. The cheongsam in the museum, as the research object, uses the historical literature research method and the field investigation method to analyze and study the multiple cheongsam in the museum. The main reason is to study the cheongsam carefully and systematically. It can expand the research field of Manchu cheongsam, and provide a certain theoretical basis for the inheritance and development of the art of Qipao. The second chapter is an overview of cheongsam. The main content is the introduction of the history of the development of cheongsam. In this chapter, the author consults a large number of ancient books, and systematically collate the development and evolution process of Qipao by the former researchers. The third chapter is a summary of the cheongsam of the Manchu Manchu Museum, from the whole body of the cheongsam and the flag. The two parts of the dress related dress are introduced. The fourth chapter analyses the aesthetic characteristics of the cheongsam of the Manchu Museum of Yitong. Through the induction and analysis of the collection of pictures, the article introduces the material language, color language, ornamentation language, modeling language and process language respectively. The fifth chapter systematically analyzes the culture of the Qipao of the Manchu Museum of Yitong. The connotation is mainly discussed from three aspects: historical inheritance, relationship with women beauty and contemporary society.
【学位授予单位】：中央民族大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.717.8

【参考文献】