民国时期女性“倒大袖”上衣研究
发布时间：2018-08-20 19:28
【摘要】：民国时期是中国传统服饰受西方文化影响并产生变革的重要阶段,同时也是中国传统女装向现代化女装发展的重要转型期。该时期的女装形制变化多样且富有特色,其中女性“倒大袖”上衣是20世纪20年代的标志性女装。虽然“倒大袖”上衣仅仅盛行了十余年的光景,但以其独具特色的艺术审美和有别于传统女装的设计形态,使女性服饰向现代化发展往前推进了一步。本文从服饰文化的角度着手,对“倒大袖”上衣形成的历史背景、艺术审美、穿搭方式及文明变革等方面进行深入研究。通过对江南大学民间服饰传习馆中收藏的29件女性“倒大袖”上衣实物进行细致分析,以及对于相关历史文献、数据库文献资料和图片资料的查阅,用实物测量与史料记载相结合的方法,全面分析民国时期女性“倒大袖”上衣的款式造型、面料材质、服装色彩、图案纹样、装饰工艺、结构及制作工艺等的整体服饰艺术审美特点,并着重选取“倒大袖”上衣的衣袖、衣身、衣摆、衣襟、纽扣等局部服饰特点加以研究,总结“倒大袖”上衣独特的审美特点。民国女性“倒大袖”上衣既是对传统服饰和谐有序的继承,又是对现代审美的开拓,其服装形态是在东西方文化交融的环境影响下形成,因此服饰特点与中国传统女装相互区别。通过研究“倒大袖”上衣的穿搭方式,将其与晚清时期的女性穿搭相比较,分析其整体穿搭造型的变化,从服饰的变化中显露出社会文化的转型以及该时期的社会文化、文明思想以及民俗特点。归纳总结出民国时期女性“倒大袖”上衣发展的文明变革特点,较清末女装来讲,其审美要素由繁冗演变的简洁,上衣的款式造型由宽大变得窄小,服饰着装变得没有社会地位高低之别,女性着装心理演变为追求个性、时尚、解放自我。
[Abstract]:The period of the Republic of China is an important stage for the Chinese traditional dress to be influenced and transformed by western culture. At the same time, it is also an important transition period for the development of Chinese traditional women's clothing to modern women's wear. In this period, the women's dress system varied and characteristic, among which the women's "inverted sleeves" coat was the iconic women's wear in the 1920s. Although the "inverted large sleeve" jacket has only prevailed for more than a decade, its unique artistic aesthetic and design form, which is different from the traditional women's dress, has pushed forward the development of women's clothing to the modernization. From the point of view of dress culture, this paper makes a deep study on the historical background, artistic aesthetics, wearing style and civilization change of "inverted big sleeve" jacket. Through the careful analysis of 29 pieces of women's "inverted sleeves" jacket collected in the folk dress biography hall of Jiangnan University, as well as the reference to relevant historical documents, database documents and picture materials, By means of the combination of physical measurement and historical records, this paper comprehensively analyzes the style, fabric material, clothing color, pattern and decoration technology of women's "inverted big sleeves" jacket in the period of the Republic of China. The aesthetic characteristics of the whole dress art such as structure and production technology are studied, and the unique aesthetic characteristics of the "inverted big sleeve" coat are summarized by selecting the local clothing characteristics such as the sleeve, the body, the pendulum, the skirt, the button and so on. In the Republic of China, women's "inverted sleeves" coat is not only a harmonious and orderly inheritance of traditional dress, but also a development of modern aesthetics, and its clothing form is formed under the influence of the blend of eastern and western cultures. Therefore, the characteristics of clothing and traditional Chinese women's clothing are different from each other. By studying the way of wearing "inverted sleeves" blouse, comparing it with that of women in the late Qing Dynasty, this paper analyzes the change of its overall wearing style, which reveals the transformation of social culture and the social culture of that period from the change of dress. Civilized thoughts and folklore characteristics. The characteristics of civilization change of women's "inverted big sleeves" jacket in the period of the Republic of China are summarized. Compared with the women's clothing in the late Qing Dynasty, the aesthetic elements of the jacket are simple and simple, and the style of the jacket has changed from broad to narrow. Dress has no social status, women's dress psychology has evolved into the pursuit of personality, fashion, emancipation.
【学位授予单位】：江南大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.1
本文编号：2194743
[Abstract]:The period of the Republic of China is an important stage for the Chinese traditional dress to be influenced and transformed by western culture. At the same time, it is also an important transition period for the development of Chinese traditional women's clothing to modern women's wear. In this period, the women's dress system varied and characteristic, among which the women's "inverted sleeves" coat was the iconic women's wear in the 1920s. Although the "inverted large sleeve" jacket has only prevailed for more than a decade, its unique artistic aesthetic and design form, which is different from the traditional women's dress, has pushed forward the development of women's clothing to the modernization. From the point of view of dress culture, this paper makes a deep study on the historical background, artistic aesthetics, wearing style and civilization change of "inverted big sleeve" jacket. Through the careful analysis of 29 pieces of women's "inverted sleeves" jacket collected in the folk dress biography hall of Jiangnan University, as well as the reference to relevant historical documents, database documents and picture materials, By means of the combination of physical measurement and historical records, this paper comprehensively analyzes the style, fabric material, clothing color, pattern and decoration technology of women's "inverted big sleeves" jacket in the period of the Republic of China. The aesthetic characteristics of the whole dress art such as structure and production technology are studied, and the unique aesthetic characteristics of the "inverted big sleeve" coat are summarized by selecting the local clothing characteristics such as the sleeve, the body, the pendulum, the skirt, the button and so on. In the Republic of China, women's "inverted sleeves" coat is not only a harmonious and orderly inheritance of traditional dress, but also a development of modern aesthetics, and its clothing form is formed under the influence of the blend of eastern and western cultures. Therefore, the characteristics of clothing and traditional Chinese women's clothing are different from each other. By studying the way of wearing "inverted sleeves" blouse, comparing it with that of women in the late Qing Dynasty, this paper analyzes the change of its overall wearing style, which reveals the transformation of social culture and the social culture of that period from the change of dress. Civilized thoughts and folklore characteristics. The characteristics of civilization change of women's "inverted big sleeves" jacket in the period of the Republic of China are summarized. Compared with the women's clothing in the late Qing Dynasty, the aesthetic elements of the jacket are simple and simple, and the style of the jacket has changed from broad to narrow. Dress has no social status, women's dress psychology has evolved into the pursuit of personality, fashion, emancipation.
【学位授予单位】：江南大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.1
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