明清服饰纹样“喜相逢”研究
发布时间：2019-06-14 14:02
【摘要】：“喜相逢”纹样是中国传统纹样之一,在公元前3千多年前就已出现纹样结构的雏形,但学术界还未对此纹样展开深入研究。“喜相逢”纹样又可称为“双关”或“一整二破”。此纹样以“S”形为骨线,将整圆一分为二,两子纹样向中心回旋扭动,一正一反,形成一个灵动又有趣的图案。其子纹样可以为任意植物纹、动物纹,甚至是人物纹。另外,“喜相逢”纹样也可与方胜纹、樗蒲纹等纹样组合出现,形成丰富多彩的图案形式。本文在物质文化史研究的视野下对“喜相逢”纹样的源流与演变、在明清服饰上的应用及此纹样的美学特征与寓意性等相关问题展开研究,结合文献典籍、出土实物、传世实物,通过交叉对比的方法进行分析。本文首次引用西周和秦朝实物资料,衔接了“喜相逢”纹样的流变。此外,通过研究明清补服、鞠衣、吉服、道衣、戏衣、衣料、腰牌和掌扇上的“喜相逢”纹样,来探究此纹样在明清时期的文化内涵。
[Abstract]:The pattern of "happy meet" is one of the traditional Chinese patterns, which appeared in the embryonic form of pattern structure more than 3000 years before BC, but the academic circles have not yet carried on the thorough research to this pattern. The pattern of "happy meet" can also be called "pun" or "one whole and two broken". This pattern takes the "S" shape as the bone line, divides the whole circle into two, the two subpatterns revolve around the center, one by one, forming a smart and interesting pattern. Its child pattern can be any plant pattern, animal grain, or even character pattern. In addition, the "happy meet" pattern can also be combined with Fang Sheng pattern, Ailanthus pattern and other patterns, forming a rich and colorful pattern form. From the perspective of the study of material and cultural history, this paper studies the origin and evolution of the pattern of "happy meeting", the application of the pattern in the Ming and Qing dynasties, the aesthetic characteristics and moral characteristics of the pattern, and so on. Combined with the literature classics, unearthed objects, handed down objects, through cross-comparison methods, this paper studies the origin and evolution of the "happy meeting" patterns, the application of the patterns in Ming and Qing dynasties, and the aesthetic characteristics and allegorical characteristics of the patterns. In this paper, the physical data of the Western Zhou Dynasty and the Qin Dynasty are quoted for the first time to link up the evolution of the "happy meet" pattern. In addition, the cultural connotation of this pattern in Ming and Qing dynasties was explored by studying the "happy meet" pattern on Ming and Qing Dynasty supplementary clothes, bow clothes, auspicious clothes, Taoist clothes, theatrical clothes, clothing materials, waist cards and palm fans.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：J523.5
[Abstract]:The pattern of "happy meet" is one of the traditional Chinese patterns, which appeared in the embryonic form of pattern structure more than 3000 years before BC, but the academic circles have not yet carried on the thorough research to this pattern. The pattern of "happy meet" can also be called "pun" or "one whole and two broken". This pattern takes the "S" shape as the bone line, divides the whole circle into two, the two subpatterns revolve around the center, one by one, forming a smart and interesting pattern. Its child pattern can be any plant pattern, animal grain, or even character pattern. In addition, the "happy meet" pattern can also be combined with Fang Sheng pattern, Ailanthus pattern and other patterns, forming a rich and colorful pattern form. From the perspective of the study of material and cultural history, this paper studies the origin and evolution of the pattern of "happy meeting", the application of the pattern in the Ming and Qing dynasties, the aesthetic characteristics and moral characteristics of the pattern, and so on. Combined with the literature classics, unearthed objects, handed down objects, through cross-comparison methods, this paper studies the origin and evolution of the "happy meeting" patterns, the application of the patterns in Ming and Qing dynasties, and the aesthetic characteristics and allegorical characteristics of the patterns. In this paper, the physical data of the Western Zhou Dynasty and the Qin Dynasty are quoted for the first time to link up the evolution of the "happy meet" pattern. In addition, the cultural connotation of this pattern in Ming and Qing dynasties was explored by studying the "happy meet" pattern on Ming and Qing Dynasty supplementary clothes, bow clothes, auspicious clothes, Taoist clothes, theatrical clothes, clothing materials, waist cards and palm fans.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：J523.5
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